Schmidt's SONdelux SLContact Plate Press. The tool for pressing the contact plate, insulating plate and dropout together.
The article here presents a compilation of assorted DIY hobbyist circuits to build, listed orderly from very simple ideas to more complicated concepts. The article. SON28 & SONdelux SL & SL Disc. New for 2011, Wilfried Schmidt has made dynamo lighting more convenient and reliable than ever. Until now, you have had to manually. A solar generator kit to power your applications using sunlight - no extra running costs. Turns natural sunlight into electricity and charges any 12V deep cycle batt. Create the best.
The left side of the tool fits between the two dropouts in the finished fork. The right side tightens the right dropout assembly together. Dropout Press. Retail Price: $. Frame Builders. Please contact one of these fine frame builders to have a fork made for SL hubs. Alex Meade Bikeworks.
Irvine Rd. Lexington, KY 4. Circle A Cycles. 52. Charles Street. Providence RI 0. Igleheart Custom Frames & Forks. Page St. Portland, OR 9.
![How To Install Hub Dynamo Chargers How To Install Hub Dynamo Chargers](https://stkildacycles.com.au/media/catalog/product/cache/75eed2686e01eb22cb4050b2f40ddf97/i/m/img_5511_web.jpg)
Littleford Bicycles LLC9. NE Hoyt St. Portland, OR 9.
Pereira Cycles. Portland, Oregon, USAhttp: //www. Ted Wojcik Custom Bicycles. Wilder Drive. Plaistow, NH 0. Yipsan Bicycles. 23. Marshwood Dr. Fort Collins, CO 8. More builders who build frames and forks with SL dropouts, but won't build just a fork. True North Cycles.
NB: Once you’ve read this post, you may want to read Part 2 about USB chargers and Part 3 about hub dynamo lights. We tend to carry quite a few gadgets whilst.
Sixth Line. RR#5 Belwood, ON N0. B 1. J0. Canada. 51.
Dinucci Cycles. 17. Wilt Rd. Sisters, OR 9. Many more listed soon.
If you're a frame builder who is currently building SL forks and I haven't listed you here, please accept my apology and let me know you want to be listed. The section below displays parts and tools for modifying existing forks.
If you're building a fork with the dropouts shown above, you will not need any of the parts or tools shown below. Modifying Existing Forks. Existing forks, if the dropouts have enough material around the axle slot, can be modified to take the SL hubs. For example, if you have an older road fork with Campagnolo dropouts, forget it, unless you want to heavily modify the dropouts. You either need a new fork, or install new dropouts like the Schmidt stainless dropout pictured above, or modify the existing dropouts by adding material. I have what you need regardless of how you wish to proceed. The dropout slot needs to be about 5mm longer than the slot in the old Campagnolo dropouts.
Shown here, the Campagnolo dropout isn't large enough to fit the insulating plate and contact plate. If you're going to use it, you need to do some work. Then it's slotted and drilled using the drill guide pictured below. The right dropout then has the stainless steel . You shouldn't count on the plain steel dropout surface to conduct electrical current. By using the stainless steel plate you ensure optimal conductivity.
Right Dropout Solder Plate. Retail Price: $. 1. Left Dropout Ground Contact Plate.
Retail Price: $. 4. Another image with Campagnolo dropouts, typical of dropouts used on high quality traditional steel forks, and the parts needed to convert a fork. Here I've just placed the solder plate (left) and ground plate (right) onto the dropouts to show how they would be positioned for brazing.
After brazing, the solder plate (here shown on the left but placed on the right fork dropout) would need to be slotted for the hub axle. Then the entire dropout would be drilled using the drill guide, shown just below. I'm showing this using loose dropouts.
But this would only be done on an existing fork. Otherwise, it would be better to build a fork using Schmidt's own dropouts, as shown above. Making Your Own Dropouts? Three holes (3mm) must be drilled in the right dropout to install the insulating and contact plates. These must be precisely aligned. The drilling guide pictured here ensures correct alignment of the holes.
It fits between the two dropouts. The brass guide (shown here held in place by a piece of inner tube) is pressed against the dropout slot. The brass piece is bevelled at the end to about 8. When tightened with an allen wrench, the set screw forces the brass guide into the dropout slot. The dropout is 9mm, so the guide fits nicely in the slot, and correctly positions the three holes in the end section so you can drill with confidence. Guide for drilling holes in dropouts of forks being modified.
Retail Price: $. 3. Remember! You don't need this tool if you're building a fork with our dropouts. You only need this tool if you are fabricating your own dropouts. Our dropouts already have the three holes drilled. After you've drilled the three holes in the right dropout, you may need to remove some material from the inside face of the right dropout. This makes the space for the insulating plate and contact plate. This is the tool you'll need.
The tool tapers to 9mm so it fits within the left dropout and can mill the right dropout. You would use this tool if you're modifying a fork that has large dropouts, like most aluminum forks.
If you're modifying most steel dropouts, you'd use the solder plate shown above to create a large enough surface for the contact plate, and you'd have no need for the counterbore. Counterbore. Retail Price: $.
Remember! You don't need this tool if you're building a fork with our dropouts. You only need this tool if you are fabricating your own dropouts. Our dropouts have already been counterbored. By the way: I am no longer a frame builder. I cannot modify forks. You will need to contact a competent frame builder to have this work done. Sorry, but for me, those days are over.
SON2. 8 SL & SONdelux SL Disc. SONdelux SL & SL Disc Wheelbuilding Data: Hub Flange Diameter - 5.
Flange to Flange width - 5. When building the disc versions, since the offset to make space for the disc is so small, I find that there is no need to use different spoke lengths on the right side vs the left side. Use the same spokes all around, and you'll only have to make a small adjustment to center the rim. When building the wheel with the SL hub, you must electrically isolate the right end cap of the hub axle from the truing stand. Electrical tape works well. SON2. 8 SL & SL Disc Wheelbuilding Data: New SON2.
Flange Diameter - 5. Flange to Flange width - 6. New SON2. 8 Centerlock Disc: Flange Diameter - Right side: 5.
Left side: 5. 9mm. Flange to Flange width - 4. Offset a bit to the right. Use same spoke lengths both sides.)SON2.
ISO Disc: Flange Diameter - 5. Flange to Flange width - 4. Offset a bit to the right. Use same spoke lengths both sides.)All wheelbuilding stands I'm familiar with are made of steel or aluminum, and all conduct electricity. When building the wheel with the SL hub, you must electrically isolate the right end cap of the hub axle from the truing stand. Electrical tape works well.
Lacing Patterns: 3. If you wish, radial spoking is allowed, though not on the disc versions. Hub Alignment. It is critical the the SL hubs be used in the correct alignment. The right dropout actually has both sides of the electrical circuit. And the right axle end has both sides as well. And that's the key.
The inside surface of the right dropout is electrically isolated from the rest of the dropout. And the right side of the hub axle has two sections; power and ground, which contact two sections of the right dropout. If you install the hub backwards in the fork, you'll short the circuit and your lights will not work. If that happens reverse the wheel. My Hub Feels Notchy! When you hold the wheel or hub in your hand and turn the axle, you'll feel a lot of resistance. There are 2. 6 poles and 2.
SON2. 8 hub (fewer in the SON2. That creates 2. 6 points around the hub shell that the axle wants to settle in, and a corresponding 2. In the transitions between those points, the axle wants to turn in one direction or the other, to find the point where it wants to settle.
As you ride, the hub turns relative to the axle, and 2. At speed, the effects of these two forces almost completely cancel each other out, leaving you with extremely low drag overall. It's only when you don't have a lot of mass (your weight) and inertia (your speed) that the effect is to actually retard the rotation of the hub axle.
So there's no reason to be concerned about the way the axle feels when turned by hand. The Bearings Cannot Be Adjusted! Frequently, people decide that I'm stupid, (Who can blame them?) and that in fact the notchiness they feel while turning the axle by hand is due to the bearings being adjusted too tightly. This is not the case.